What is retinol and will it make my acne flare? Experts unpack this trendy skincare ingredient

One of the most common claims about retinol is that it helps to reduce visible signs of ageing.

How does this work?

With age, the skin’s barrier becomes weaker, making it more prone to dryness, injury and irritation.

Retinol can help counteract this natural thinning by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes – cells that form the outer skin layer and protect against damage and water loss.

Retinol also stimulates the production of collagen (a key protein that creates a scaffolding that keeps skin firm and elastic) and fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen and support skin structure).

It also increases how fast the skin sheds old cells and replaces them with new ones.

Over time, these processes help reduce fine lines, fade dark spots, and even out skin tone. It can also make skin appear clearer.

While effective, this doesn’t happen overnight.

You may have also heard about a “retinol purge” – a temporary flare of acne when you first start using topical retinoids.

Studies have found the skin may become irritated and acne temporarily worsen in some cases. But more research needs to be done to understand this link.